Bodegas Tierras de Orgaz Mernat 2009

Picked out this gem from Castilla/La Mancha, the wine region closest to Toledo. While technically a Vino de la Tierra (the lowest regulated quality marker in Spain) it has a lot to offer! Some wines are simply not allowed to display a higher quality denomination because they blend from varieties that don't have local roots, and this Tempranillo/Merlot/Cabernet Sauvigon/Petit Verdot/Syrah field blend is a great example of a well made wine. A masculine wine with powerful aromas of quality balsamic, overripe fig, currant, anise and a distinct meaty note reminiscent of a fine Jamon. A meaty mouthfeel with firm tannin. Ripe and ready to pair with local specialties like stewed venison, or rest another two or three years.

Still Busy!

Lot's going on at work but I did find some time to walk around Toledo and buy a few wines and some gifts for family! Looking forward to coming home soon!

Busy at work!

The last few days have been fairly well occupied by Adolfo, we've had a few busy services, large groups and a cocktail party for 250! Lot's of work but overall, not much to report!

MV Azul 2007

Next time I leave the country I will be bringing a tasting glass in my suitcase. Until then, DOF glasses will have to suffice. At 6.50 euros (about 8.75 CAD, but remember wine is not taxed so highly here!), this wine is local to Toledo, from the nearby Cuidad Real (Royal City), in the Dehesa del Carrizal D.O. It pours a deep, youthful garnet color, seemingly untouched by it's six years in bottle. Flavors of fig and dark cherry, heady licorice and a touch of oak and raw 15% alcohol. Still jumping with acid, but with soft tannin and full mouth feel. Somewhat one dimensional, might benefit from a bit of food to go along with it.

Surprise!

So, Adolfo told me yesterday afternoon that today I would be going to the wholesale markets with some of his staff. Then he told me that Vincente would pick me up at 4:30, in the morning, that is!

The Mercamadrid is the second largest fishmarket in the world, only surpassed by the enormous Tsukiji market in Japan. The picture I attatched shows one of the laneways, there are at least a dozen. Theres also a shot of the skid of fish we purchased; a dozen Canadian lobsters, 8 Mediterranean lubina, cases of shrimps and a years supply of cod, (24 cases of 6 pieces of 5-7 kg fish for those of you who are curious; now is peak season for codfishing in Denmark).

Afterwards we went to Adolfo's house and headquarters at Vinedos Cigarral Santa Maria, so I could see how the restaurants food orders are processed at their warehouse, and drop off the load of fish and vegetables.

Next to Madrid, I met up with Adolfo's son Javier at the Cibeles location, and had a quick chat and a traditional lunch of chickpea and bacalao stew, followed by braised veal. Afterwards I hopped aboard Madrids excellent Metro system to do some shopping at Puerta del Sol and Mercado de San Miguel. Rain is currently driving me home early, but I look forward to a long nap.

Plans!

My first day off since I've arrived is tomorrow! I plan to go to Madrid to see Adolfo's new restaurant at Plaza de Cibeles! If all goes well I will have time to get lunch at Mercado de San Miguel, and accomplish some shopping at Puerta del Sol.

When I get back on Thursday, I will be working at Coleccion Tapas Bar for a change of pace and a chance to learn some tricks of the trade.

New Apartment, Grocery Shopping and Mor(cilla)!

I swear I am trying to post regularly. I've changed living quarters as of early this week and attatched pictures of my new place. It's about the size of your average living room! However, it's free and it suits my needs. I can walk to work in about two minutes.

I found a wine shop that sells some local artisan beers, but due to wi-fi constraints I won't be posting reviews until I return. Look for ratings on Domus and Sagra, both Toledan specialties. I hit the local supermarket again and found more goodies! Pre-sliced queso curado (similar to Manchego) for sandwiches, canned partridge, and Jamon flavored Pringles! The bakeries here carry a fantastic dessert named after the city; Toledanas are dense pastries stuffed with sweet squash filling and crusted with crunchy pieces of caramelized sugar. I'm currently battling to keep my habit below two a day.

At work, Adolfo decided we were going to make traditional Morcilla de Buttifara, a Spanish pork sausage spiced with blood. However, it turns out he and I were to only people who have ever done this before! It was a strange feeling, to teach the people I am supposed to be learning from. The salchichas came out damn tasty none the less.

I hope to talk with el chef de cocina Sergio about spending a week at Colleccion, Adolfo's vinoteca, and five days or so in the pastry kitchen with pastelero and drinking buddy Aitor.

Wi-fi Not?

It's proving more difficult than I thought to find wi-fi here so posts may be fewer and farther in between than normal. Work is going well, things here in Spain are different. To maintain the quality of the proteins they serve, they buy in big batches while the season is at it's peak, prepare it all in to portions, vacuum seal, and freeze it. Each individual piece is thawed gently and cooked to order.

On Monday it was a public holiday, and the staff went to Adolfo's winery for dinner. Attatched are photos of the vineyard and the banquet hall in which we ate. Dinner was traditional, jamon iberico, lomo, tortilla espagnola, guisado de ceirvo and cochinillo asado. (Spanish ham, whole cured pork loin, Spanish omelet, venison stew and roast suckling pig.) the staff had a great time, dancing, eating and of course drinking. The Spaniards are notorious for drinking at all hours of the day, as I speak I'm eating breakfast at a restaurant that offers beer to wash it down.

On my afternoon breaks I have been walking around, theres lots to be seen in Toledo, there are artisinal metalworks all over, bakeries and restaurants, as well as churches, mosques and "vendadors des productos typicos" (literally "sellers of typical products"), that offer local jamon, cheese, canned partridge, wine, beer, pastry, and olive oil.

Hope you are all having as good a time as I am, communication is proving difficult, but we shall overcome! I hope to head to a local shop to buy a few Toledan beers and give them a rating!

Day Three!

Today is day three of my adventures in Spain.  It's taking me a little while to adjust to the time change and hours of operation here.  To put it into perspective, I work from 11 am - 5 pm and then again from 8 pm - 12 am, with the time change of six hours, this means I am at work from 5 am - 11 am and then from 2 pm - 6 pm Canadian time.  Took a trip to the local market yesterday, the Spaniards love fresh fruit so there was plenty of that.  I bought a few things so that I can snack at the apartment, and all the products you are used to are different here.  Milk is UHT pasteurized and can be stored on a shelf until opened, single serve yogurt portions are almost twice the size, and you can even buy sweetened orange juice. (Which I did by accident. Will NOT make this mistake again.)

Work at Adolfo is very different from what I am used to.  I am still adjusting to the program there.  The largest difference is the language barrier.  Everything around me occurs in Spanish, and only one of the cooks  speaks any English.  I've been working with some nice products though, wild partridge and quail, as well as a  variety of foraged mushrooms and flowers.  Mario showed me 'el flor electrico' (acmella oleracea), a flower that contains a mild numbing agent and saliva stimulant that gives you a very sour feeling in your mouth! I also had a chance to meet Alfredo, the sommelier, who used to be a ESL teacher in Spain.  His English is perfect and it's nice to have a conversation with someone who you understand and who understands you!

I took a walk around today (and got lost...), only to discover that today is the parade of El Dia des Tres Reyes, celebrated on January 7th.  We call this Epiphany in English, and it is the Spanish equivalent of Christmas.  Kids all over Spain will await their presents on Monday morning.  I await something else however!  Monday is a Holiday here, and Felix tells me that the staff are all invited to Adolfo's vineyard for dinner.  Exciting!

On the left is a picture of the entrance to Zocodover (the main square in Toledo) from the inside.  It is all fancied up for the parade.  On the right is a shot from the same place facing towards the crowd that is lining the opposing side of the square to watch.

Until next time!

A Rather Pheasant Day.

Arrived in Spain safe and sound! My hosts from Grupo Adolfo met me at the airport and brought me to Toledo to their restaurant. For a few days I will stay above the restaurant in the casa urbana apartments until they have a flat ready for me. I met the kitchen team, and worked with Mario who speaks a bit of English. I shadowed him through lunch service and after the afternoon break he showed me how they prepare their artichokes and how to clean whole partridge. Be wary of bits of grain and birdshot! Here are some photos of the aparthotel.

Holiday Wines

A pair of very tasty wines I had over the holidays!

Crognolo 2009
This great IGT Toscano, at just over $30, offers exceptional value for money, and wonderful drinkability.  Decanted for one hour, it pours a bright ruby red.  The nose is loaded with floral aromas, earth tones and leather.  Picking up a very feminine flavor profile here, sour cherry, cranberry and mixed herbs.  The wine shows bright acidity and soft tannin, and a medium bodied mouthfeel.  Uncomplicated by long term oak aging, drink this now!

Chateau Canon 2006
Thanks to the chef for this great birthday present!  Decanted two hours and then some.  A very old world nose, cedar, mineral and leather.  Dried cherry and earth.  Complex and layered with a full, chewy mouth feel, this definitely needed that time to open up.  Good now, but the strong tannin tells me this needs at least another year or two to hit it's stride.

Leaving for Spain in the morning, first stop, Chicago's O'Hare airport!